Thursday, March 8, 2012

Teuscher Chocolates: the Sound of Music or the Sound of Bankruptcy?

 Let me pose this question to you. In your hand are three dollars. Nice, crisp, green bills. There are many nice things you could purchase with this money. Now, someone shows you a small piece of Swiss chocolate the size of a quarter and asks if you will hand over your three dollars for it. This is the moment that decides chocolate harpies from regular, sane humans. You should be warned, however, that even a perfectly rational human entering the Teuscher store is likely to walk out a chocolate-crazed zombie with a steaming debit card.

What is it about this subterranean store on Newbury Street that strips the human brain of all control? Is it the little paper flowers that are so kitsch that one expects the Von Trapp family to pop out from behind the counter and sing "The Hills are Alive"? Possibly. But more than this, it is the allure of wondering how those neat rows of chocolates could possibly be worth three dollars each. And if you stare long enough, you'll start to believe they are. Especially with those chocolate ducks oggling you.

They are most famous for their champagne truffles, a triple layer confection that starts with milk chocolate, goes to the most subversively potent dark chocolate you can imagine, and then ends with a light, foamy champagne mousse in the center. Worth three bucks? Hell, yes. It's their plainer chocolates that I'm not so sure about. Their milk chocolate truffle was rather sandy in the middle, and while it did have a certain smack of high-octane chocolate to it, I wouldn't lust for another.

The taste almost seemed like a cross between a bite of chocolate and a shot of it my imagination or does Teuscher put liquor in all of their chocolates? Either way, I think one must be selective at this store. Leave your wallet at home, walk in with only three dollars on you, and walk out a solvent, dignified foodie with your one truffle; just be sure it's the champagne one!

230 Newbury St. Boston

1 comment:

  1. I used to buy my mother the champagne truffles from the Teuscher shop in Rockefeller Center every time I visited NYC. Never tried any of the other chocolates, but the champagne truffles definitely made her day.